As a Ruby Star Maker, I recently received fabric from the new Verbena line by Jen Hewett for Ruby Star Society, which I decided to make into an Orla dress by French Navy (free pattern!).

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

XS at the neck graded to S at the bust graded to M at the waist.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• High Bust: 32.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

Ruby Star Society fabric from the Verbena line by Jen Hewett.

Adjustments / Construction:

• Instead of doing a bodice muslin straight away, I tried to make adjustments based off my traced pattern, then made a muslin. This didn't actually work as well as I thought, and I ended up doing 2 bodice muslins with incremental adjustments and several re-traced patterns after adjustments (5 versions in all). So next time, I'd probably start with a muslin right off the bat like I have in the past.
• After all the adjustments I tried, I ended up keeping the same darts as before, except on the front darts, lowering the point by 1-5/8".
• Since the instructions were not illustrated step-by-step, I went looking for a sew-along to help me visually follow each step, and found this YouTube video helpful: How to Sew a Zipper Back Dress (using French Navy - Orla dress)
• I wanted to take off the sleeves, but I didn't want to necessarily end up with a sleeveless dress, so I landed on a ruffle sleeve and found this free ruffle sleeve hack and pattern: Gaïa – Ruffled shoulders.
• I also researched hacks that others made to the Orla dress, and referenced this blog post to remove the sleeves from the pattern: Another Sleeveless Orla - Drafting Tutorial.
• Shortened straps 0.75", and also lowered the bottom of the arm hole by 0.75" as well to keep the size of the arm hole the same.
• Took out 0.25" from the center back at the neckline (basically cut away a wedge).
• Used S for the gathered skirt pieces and shortened 2" since the pattern was drafted for a height of 5' 7".
• Added in-seam pockets anchored at the waist, and followed a tutorial from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Olive Sewalong // Pockets and Skirt) using a pocket pattern from Cashmerette (Pocket Time! Add Pockets to the Cashmerette Turner Dress).

Likes:

• Semi-fitted bodice (after I got the right dart adjustments figured out, to the best of my knowledge).
• I could see this being one of those tried-and-true basic dresses that is very hackable.

Next Time:

• Take out 0.25" from the center front at the neckline.
• Try a rayon, which has more drape than cotton.
• Add more ease to the arm hole in the back. It's a little tight, though still wearable. Possibly a softer fabric (like rayon) would help with this too.

Holmen Top by Uncut Project

I tested the Holmen top by The Uncut Project before it was released last year, and here is my finished version! 

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

Due to the fitted bodice, I went off my bust measurement of 34.5" and sewed a straight size 38/M top version.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used a crinkly rayon from LA Finch Fabrics.

Adjustments / Construction:

• Shortened the shoulder straps by 6".
• For the back, instead of a 13" gather between the notches, I did 9.5" so that the back didn't scoop so low. For the top, I didn't want the scoop so low that the waist of my jeans could show. For a dress, I'd consider keeping the original length of gathering.
• I did a minor adjustment to the hem, but this was more a matter of preference than fit. For the main fabric, I only did 0.25" folded over twice, and for the lining, I did 0.5" folded over twice.

Likes:

• This is a cute top all around!

Next Time:

• Since the back ties are adjustable, it makes the sizing a little flexible - I might try to size down to a 36/S.
• Try the dress version!
• This pattern is fully lined, so it could be made into a reversible top or dress. The changes I would make in this case would be to top stitch (instead of understitch) through both the main and lining fabrics of the fitted bodice and possibly sew both the main and lining fabrics together at the hem so that they are the same length
• Figure out a sewn-in bra situation (although I plan to wear the tester version without a bra . . . how old is too old to keep doing that?!)

Rainbow Gauze Ogden Cami by True Bias

This was my second Ogden cami by True Bias, made with leftover black and rainbow double gauze from Joann.

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

Size 2.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• High Bust: 32.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

Double gauze from Joann.

Adjustments / Construction:

• See details from my first Ogden cami here: Ogden Cami by True Bias
• Only change was to shorten the straps by about an inch.

Likes:

See details from my first Ogden cami here: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Next Time:

After sizing down amd shortening the straps, there's still some extra ease such that I think I could size down again, or potentially try a small bust adjustment on size 2.

Rifle Paper Ogden Cami by True Bias

Early on in my garment sewing journey, the stars aligned one weekend and I was home alone basically the entire Saturday. It was glorious, particularly because I resolved to (a) sit down and re-learn how to thread my serger and (b) finally finish the Ogden cami pattern that I had started months prior. Check and check . . . Behold, a completed Ogden cami!

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

I went with a size 4 for this one based on the size chart.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used Rifle Paper Co's Jardin DeParis fabric in mint rayon challis, which I got from Fabric Bubb.

Adjustments / Construction:

• I'd never done an understitch before, and so trusty ole YouTube helped me out with this video: How To Sew An Understitch from Professor Pincushion
• One of the reasons it took me so long to finally tackle and finish this project is because I really wanted to finish the seams by serging, but I was working up the courage to re-learn how to serge after setting my serger aside for a couple of years. After I devoted the time to it, while it's not perfect serging, it was okay. So . . . just do it!
• Although the original pattern called for understitching around the collars and arms, top stitching works too! See an example here: An Ogden Cami in Birch Organic Chambray by Lucky Lucille
• Aside from that, the pattern length worked for me (5'0") despite being originally drafted for someone 5'5" and a C cup.

Likes:

• It was the first time I'd sewn with rayon challis and I liked it. The drape - swoon! But also, the wrinkles - bah! In any case, I couldn't wait to wear it the next day, and wear it I did!

Next Time:

• Early on, I wasn't in the habit of investing time in muslins. With this first Ogden cami, I made a note to try a size down, since I feel like it's a tad loose for my frame (though not enough to deter me from wearing it, since flowy is certainly "in" right now).
• Side note - here's a helpful article on muslins if you are so inclined to make them: Do You Really Need to Make a Muslin?

Agave Shorts by Desert & Sea Studio

I was a pattern tester for the Agave shorts pattern by Desert and Sea Studio, and here is my finished test version!

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

I waffled between a size 8 and 10, but ultimately did a straight size 10.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used a linen blend from SAS Fabrics and buttons from Joann.

Adjustments / Construction:

• There were elements of this pattern that stretched my skills because I hadn't done them before, like using my sewing machine to do buttonholes and buttons. It was easier than I had built up in my mind, with some watching of YouTube, asking questions of Julie of Desert and Sea Studio, and practice.

• I shortened the hem an additional 1.5", both because of preference and the shorter length suited my height (5') better.
• Since I shortened the hem, I also re-spaced the buttons at the sides. I didn't move the button on the waist, but the remaining buttons, I used a Simflex to help evenly space them, ending at 2" above the shortened hem.
• Size 10 ended up being a looser fit on me, so I also moved the buttons in to reduce ease.
• I made a few other tweaks while sewing my test version, which are captured in my highlights.

Likes:

• Button detail down the sides
• Flat front

Next Time:

• Due to the looser fit of size 10 on me, I may size down next time.
  
• Shorten the pattern about 1" to 1.5" (versus shortening the hem at the end) for the shorts version
  
• Try the pants version!