I tested the Holmen top by The Uncut Project before it was released last year, and here is my finished version! 

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

Due to the fitted bodice, I went off my bust measurement of 34.5" and sewed a straight size 38/M top version.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used a crinkly rayon from LA Finch Fabrics.

Adjustments / Construction:

• Shortened the shoulder straps by 6".
• For the back, instead of a 13" gather between the notches, I did 9.5" so that the back didn't scoop so low. For the top, I didn't want the scoop so low that the waist of my jeans could show. For a dress, I'd consider keeping the original length of gathering.
• I did a minor adjustment to the hem, but this was more a matter of preference than fit. For the main fabric, I only did 0.25" folded over twice, and for the lining, I did 0.5" folded over twice.

Likes:

• This is a cute top all around!

Next Time:

• Since the back ties are adjustable, it makes the sizing a little flexible - I might try to size down to a 36/S.
• Try the dress version!
• This pattern is fully lined, so it could be made into a reversible top or dress. The changes I would make in this case would be to top stitch (instead of understitch) through both the main and lining fabrics of the fitted bodice and possibly sew both the main and lining fabrics together at the hem so that they are the same length
• Figure out a sewn-in bra situation (although I plan to wear the tester version without a bra . . . how old is too old to keep doing that?!)

Rainbow Gauze Ogden Cami by True Bias

This was my second Ogden cami by True Bias, made with leftover black and rainbow double gauze from Joann.

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

Size 2.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• High Bust: 32.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

Double gauze from Joann.

Adjustments / Construction:

• See details from my first Ogden cami here: Ogden Cami by True Bias
• Only change was to shorten the straps by about an inch.

Likes:

See details from my first Ogden cami here: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Next Time:

After sizing down amd shortening the straps, there's still some extra ease such that I think I could size down again, or potentially try a small bust adjustment on size 2.

Rifle Paper Ogden Cami by True Bias

Early on in my garment sewing journey, the stars aligned one weekend and I was home alone basically the entire Saturday. It was glorious, particularly because I resolved to (a) sit down and re-learn how to thread my serger and (b) finally finish the Ogden cami pattern that I had started months prior. Check and check . . . Behold, a completed Ogden cami!

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

I went with a size 4 for this one based on the size chart.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used Rifle Paper Co's Jardin DeParis fabric in mint rayon challis, which I got from Fabric Bubb.

Adjustments / Construction:

• I'd never done an understitch before, and so trusty ole YouTube helped me out with this video: How To Sew An Understitch from Professor Pincushion
• One of the reasons it took me so long to finally tackle and finish this project is because I really wanted to finish the seams by serging, but I was working up the courage to re-learn how to serge after setting my serger aside for a couple of years. After I devoted the time to it, while it's not perfect serging, it was okay. So . . . just do it!
• Although the original pattern called for understitching around the collars and arms, top stitching works too! See an example here: An Ogden Cami in Birch Organic Chambray by Lucky Lucille
• Aside from that, the pattern length worked for me (5'0") despite being originally drafted for someone 5'5" and a C cup.

Likes:

• It was the first time I'd sewn with rayon challis and I liked it. The drape - swoon! But also, the wrinkles - bah! In any case, I couldn't wait to wear it the next day, and wear it I did!

Next Time:

• Early on, I wasn't in the habit of investing time in muslins. With this first Ogden cami, I made a note to try a size down, since I feel like it's a tad loose for my frame (though not enough to deter me from wearing it, since flowy is certainly "in" right now).
• Side note - here's a helpful article on muslins if you are so inclined to make them: Do You Really Need to Make a Muslin?

Agave Shorts by Desert & Sea Studio

I was a pattern tester for the Agave shorts pattern by Desert and Sea Studio, and here is my finished test version!

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

I waffled between a size 8 and 10, but ultimately did a straight size 10.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

I used a linen blend from SAS Fabrics and buttons from Joann.

Adjustments / Construction:

• There were elements of this pattern that stretched my skills because I hadn't done them before, like using my sewing machine to do buttonholes and buttons. It was easier than I had built up in my mind, with some watching of YouTube, asking questions of Julie of Desert and Sea Studio, and practice.

• I shortened the hem an additional 1.5", both because of preference and the shorter length suited my height (5') better.
• Since I shortened the hem, I also re-spaced the buttons at the sides. I didn't move the button on the waist, but the remaining buttons, I used a Simflex to help evenly space them, ending at 2" above the shortened hem.
• Size 10 ended up being a looser fit on me, so I also moved the buttons in to reduce ease.
• I made a few other tweaks while sewing my test version, which are captured in my highlights.

Likes:

• Button detail down the sides
• Flat front

Next Time:

• Due to the looser fit of size 10 on me, I may size down next time.
  
• Shorten the pattern about 1" to 1.5" (versus shortening the hem at the end) for the shorts version
  
• Try the pants version!

Hallon Dress by Paradise Patterns

I saw this rainbow-on-black double gauze at Joann, and thought it'd be great for the Hallon dress by Paradise Patterns. I wore it out on a 110F+ day (during a week of excessive heat warnings - ouch) and it was nice and airy.

(See more photos at the end of the post.)

Size / View:

View A. My body measurements were closest to a size 4. Since there is so much ease down at the hem though, I graded from a size 4 bust to a size 0 hem.

For reference, my measurements are:

• Bust: 34.5"
• High Bust: 32.5"
• Waist: 29"
• Hip: 37.5"
• Height: 5' 0"

Fabric:

Double gauze from Joann.

Adjustments / Construction:

• Given the ample ease of this pattern, I chose not to do a muslin for this garment. It's like garment sewing chicken?
• Since I wanted retain the crinkly right-out-of-the-dryer texture of the double gauze, I didn't iron the fabric before I cut and sewed, except for the bias binding around the neck and arms.
• As drawn on the pattern, the bust darts were a little too pointy on me. I extended the bust darts by about 1" to 1.25" and that seemed to solve the issue for me.
• The pattern is drafted for someone who is 5' 7", so I had to shorten the pattern by 7" and following the instructions, I took 1/3 of that off the back curve and 2/3 off the bottom of the back piece. I actually rounded down to 2.25" and 4.5" to make it easy. Plus I took the full 7" off the front piece, below the dart and above the hem.
• I also had to remember to remove the difference from the gathered back curve. For this, I loosely followed the instructions, but also eyeballed what looked good and even tried it on once or twice (pinned/held together) to test out how the back gather looked.
• The pattern doesn't have an O-ring in the straps like you see in mine - I was trying to add in adjustable straps, then scrapped that plan when I realized the straps weren't long enough for that. I kept the O-rings though.

Likes:

• Flowy design with low back was good for a hot day.
• I chose to add a belt when I wore this out to define my waist, and wore it with a pair of wedge sandals.
• Since I chose to use double gauze, which was already textured, going bra-less was not obvious or a big deal, which I was a little worried about. In a different more smooth fabric, I might have felt differently though!

Next Time:

• Try View B, perhaps in a satin-like fabric or a rib knit.
• Add a shelf bra, depending on the fabric choice.
• Lower the front neckline by 1". Since there is more material in the back, it does weigh the back down a bit and cause the front to ride up. I saw someone mention this online that they compensated for this by lowering the front neckline. (I actually did end up doing this on a subsequent Hallon dress I made for a friend)
• Instead of serging exposed seams, do French seams. (I also ended up doing this on the Hallon dress I subsequently made for a friend)